The Send #3: Digital models | Woody | Angy Eiter

Digital climbing holds

This week we're giving you a look at the raw models produced by our scanning process.

Using photogrammetry we capture the shape of climbing holds, creating a digital model.

These digital models are made by a mesh, a net of tiny triangles which form the shape of the scanned rock.

These tiny triangles create the individual bumps and subtle indents of the hold. Recreating these details is crucial.  As you probably know, they can easily make the difference between sticking or slipping on a hold. 

 Pull tight on this small crack to kick off the un-named (but popular) V2 at the Left Hand Side of Queens Park.

Pull tight on this small crack to kick off the un-named (but popular) V2 at the Left Hand Side of Queens Park.

 

Home woody

Every climber would love to have a climbing wall at home and we needed somewhere to safely test our prototypes before trialling them at gyms. So, after many late night discussions and some trips to the hardware store we were finally able to finish our own home woody this week!

Adjustable wall angle

Using a timber frame with M16 bolts as pins, the wall angle can be adjusted from vertical to  45° in 5° steps. This is great for testing our replica routes which have varying cliff angles. 

Rapid prototype testing

The wall lets us quickly test physical holds before investing in moudling/casting production. 

3D printers can directly produce functional climbing holds but material costs and printing times inhibit large scale production.

Video

Here's a quick time-lapse of the wall in action, with our resident coach giving some crucial pointers. 

 

Train like you play...

Check out Angy Eiter's incredible 5.15b send of La Planta de Shiva last year. 

To train, Angy recreated the route at her local gym, using standard holds which matched the outdoor counterparts.

Our replica climbing holds can take the accuracy of this recreation a BIG step further. Helping athletes to keep pushing the limits of whats possible and allowing every day climbers to take on these challenges as well.